Currently sometimes a little busy with other stuff

Might not be playing just as much this summer...

WOW hope you are not on that job on your own ...... good luck

Full renovation of the basement, But there was issues with the bathroom upstairs (water leaking though the floor). When the plumber removed the concrete to install a new drain. he was not gentle and made a crack in the floor concrete, so we had to repaired it during moveing to toilet to another placement.

Held og lykke og god arbejdslyst

I would just use some SILICON sealer,, Job done

-SD-Silicon wrote: Held og lykke og god arbejdslyst

Far, vi modtager den underlige radiostation igen

Tak, næste gang så tager vi en snak på dansk

Did you drill that rebar into the current concrete with resin?? looks like its just laying on the insulation ? !?

The insulation is to stop the concrete from filling the basement,
Its cheap and works fine when supported by supporting pilers (do not know the English term, but in Danish they are called soldiers, as they stand up straight). One could also use Shuttering Plywood, but for this type of work insulation of a sufficient thickness is fine).
Rebar are drilled into the existing floor concrete and the hole filled with anchoring Mass to remove air and fix the rebar (avoid rust). Rebar are a few centimetres from the insulation (min 3cm) . both top and bottom, so concrete will get a strong bond with the rebar. same as laying a new concrete floor.

Perfect yea i know the insulation was shuttering, its quite strong stuff considering the weight of it. We call the soldiers acrow.

I was just worried the rebar looked like it was touching the insulation and not fixed into previous concrete, so the concrete would only be supported but its grip on previous

concrete edge. a Dangerous weight to fall but no you done it properly

Work and work..
Removed windows and made new window hole
Electricity pipes and outlet build into walls
Removed heating , temporary water heater
New water heater, new pipes, new room heater unit, for the floor heating pipes.
New water (cold and hot) almost done
House heating done tomorrow
New windows and new door in about +2 months
Still missing to dig for installing of wall isolation at the front road and new roof water well to sewer digging , maybe next weekend... or spring next year

Also time for wine and pool

looking good, why 6 and a half loops on the manifold? or are my eyes bleary

nm u got 3 zone pipes gues one on manifold is spare. I like the levels of your copper pipes. nice and straight

There is one spare water each in each manifold (cold/warm), for a work/small kitchen sink in the basement. The manifold can be extended if required.

The copper pipes and the alupex pipes was done by a Plummer, and many are not all straight(the picture angel hides it a bit), so they will have to redo/correct it. We gave up on the Plummer on the bottom manifolds and did it ourself and used our own manifolds that had the correct spacing (in the picture). Not that impressed with the plummer work. also the water heater manual states that optimally it should be a lest 20cm from the ceiling. it is only 12 cm. They will come and do the house heating pipes today and back again later to correct the not straight pipes - both copper and alupex (without charging).
Still alot of work.. but for a while much of it will not be me doing the work.

My last, had no room lol

AMG, alot of pipeing with no room, but looks quite straight and all copper . No isolation? Did you do it yourself or?
Do you have a very big house..